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Meet Phunjo Lama, Mt Everest Climber Sets Record For Fastest Ascent By Woman

Phunjo Lama, a mountaineer from Nepal, has set a new record for the fastest ascent of Mount Everest by a woman, completing the climb in an astonishing 24 hours and 26 minutes.

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Ishika Thanvi
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Image: @phunjo, Instagram

Phunjo Lama, a mountaineer from Nepal, has set a new record for the fastest ascent of Mount Everest by a woman, completing the climb in an astonishing 24 hours and 26 minutes. Her achievement included a 14-hour and 31-minute ascent to the summit, followed by a nine-hour and 18-minute descent. Lama began her record-breaking climb on May 23 at 3:52 PM and reached the summit by 6:23 AM the next day.

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Strategic Night Climb

Mount Everest's challenging conditions and brief climbing season create a narrow window for summiting. Climbers often face long waits due to "traffic jams" of other climbers. Lama strategically chose to climb at night, avoiding the massive crowds that typically ascend during the day. She reported to CNN that this approach allowed her to bypass the estimated 6,700 climbers between Camps Two and Four on May 21 and 22. By the morning of the 24 May, she encountered only around "60 or 70" climbers.

Preparation and Acclimatization

Proper acclimatization is crucial for a successful Everest ascent. Lama spent three weeks acclimatizing at Base Camp before her record attempt, accompanied by her climbing partner Samantha McMahon. McMahon is also pursuing a significant goal: becoming the first Australian woman to climb all 8,000-meter peaks.

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Everest's Imposing Challenge

Standing at 8,849 meters (29,032 feet), Mount Everest is the ultimate challenge for climbers. This was Lama's second attempt at the summit. In 2018, she set the previous record with a time of 39 hours and six minutes for the round trip from Base Camp, as recognised by Guinness World Records. However, this record was broken in 2021 by Ada Tsang of Hong Kong, who completed the climb in 25 hours and 50 minutes. The fastest ascent by a man remains the 10 hours and 56 minutes set by Nepali climber Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa in 2003.

Humble Aspirations

Despite her record-breaking accomplishments, Lama remains humble, downplaying the pursuit of records and recognition. Interestingly, it was someone else who submitted her 2018 record to Guinness World Records. Her upbringing in Nepal's remote Tsum Valley, at altitudes of 4,500-5,000 meters, among a yak herding community, may contribute to her natural aptitude for high-altitude climbing. Growing up, Lama spoke only a local dialect and learned Nepali and English after moving to Kathmandu as a teenager. This background fostered her deep connection to the mountains and her resilience at high altitudes.

"Mountains are my playground and my home," Lama shared with CNN. "A mountain never says that you are a woman and you are a man. Which is why I like mountains because a mountain is always equal."

 A Vision for the Future

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As a mountaineering guide, Lama notes that her climbing clients are predominantly male, with a ratio of about 75% men to 25% women. However, she dreams of seeing this ratio become equal someday. "I'm sure my dream will come true," she says.

Phunjo Lama's recent feat not only sets a new standard in mountaineering but also inspires a vision of greater gender equality in the sport. Her story represents the power of determination, strategic planning, and a profound connection to the natural world.

women in mountaineering mount everest fastest ascent
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