The European Chess Union (ECU) introduced a controversial dress code in 2012 which sparked debates over gender fairness and professionalism in chess. These regulations, implemented at the European Women’s Championship in Turkey, aimed to standardise players' appearances but have raised concerns about sexism and the focus on women's attire.
The Chess Dress Code: Key Guidelines
The rules, designed for both men and women, emphasise a professional and modest appearance:
- Décolletés or cleavage must be covered, with only the top two buttons of shirts allowed to be open. Skirts cannot be shorter than 10 centimetres (3.9 inches) above the knee.
- Men must wear clean, undamaged trousers, jeans, shirts, or polos, free of excessive wear or holes.
- Players must avoid body odour and maintain a "pulled-together, harmonious, complete look" with coordinated colours, fabrics, shoes, and accessories.
- Flip-flops, non-religious headwear, and hats are banned. Sunglasses are permitted during matches.
Professionalism or Sexism?
While the dress code applies to both genders, its focus on restricting women’s clothing choices has always raised eyebrows:
According to ECU General Secretary Sava Stoisavljevic, the rules were introduced following complaints from spectators and coaches about female players' attire, which they claimed was distracting.
Critics point out that while the regulations promote modesty, the tournament’s marketing material emphasises glamour, with lipstick icons and suggestive designs.
Some players and commentators argue that the focus on cleavage and skirt length is arbitrary and unfairly targets women, overshadowing their skills and achievements.
Dress Code Across the Chess World
The ECU’s dress code stands in stark contrast to the more flexible policies of the International Chess Federation (FIDE), which allows:
- Women’s suits, dresses, skirts, blouses, and casual tops like turtlenecks or polos.
- A range of footwear, including sneakers, flats, and heels.
- Accessories like scarves and jewelry.
However, FIDE also prohibits ripped or overly casual clothing and non-religious headwear, aligning with the ECU’s emphasis on professionalism.
Impact on the Game and Gender Equality
Critics argue that the regulations perpetuate a focus on women’s looks rather than their intellectual prowess. Claims that men are distracted by women’s attire reflect outdated gender stereotypes and shift responsibility onto female players.
While professionalism is essential, it should not come at the cost of unfairly targeting or objectifying one gender. The chessboard, after all, should be a space where skill, strategy, and intellect take centre stage.