How Princess Karam Of Kapurthala Inspired Schiaparelli's Saree Collection

Elsa Schiaparelli was so inspired by Princess Karam's sarees that she based her collection, titled “Stop, Look and Listen,” around the fall and flow of the Indian garment.

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Sagalassis Kaur
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Back in the 1920s and 1930s, Princess Karam of Kapurthala, also known as Princess Sita Devi and nicknamed the “Pearl of India" was one of the most talked about figures in global style circles. The world of high fashion took notice of her grace, elegance, and unique blend of Indian and Western style long before most modern fashion influencers ever existed.

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Who was She?

Princess Karamjit Singh of Kapurthala (30 September 1915 − 2002) also known as Princess Karam and the Pearl of India, was the wife of Prince Karamjit Singh, a younger son of King Jagatjit Singh I of Kapurthala in Punjab, British India. In 1944, she was awarded the Empire of India Medal for her work in raising funds for Indian soldiers in the Second World War.

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Her Journey From Royalty to Fashion

When she visited Europe in the 1930s, people there were not just impressed, they were inspired. British painter Cathleen Mann's sketch of her was displayed at the New English Art Club show at the Suffolk Street Galleries. 

Subsequently, in Paris, the media widely reported on her looks. In 1938, her portrait featured in Oliver Messel's exhibition.

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She was a muse for several photographers, including Cecil Beaton and Man Ray. Vogue named her "one of the most beautiful women in the world". Her style was not only admired but also documented and featured in global publications.

In early 1939, at actress Lady Mendl's tea party in honour of the Hollywood dietitian, Gayelord Hauser, Sita Devi was listed among the twelve most glamorous women in the world.

At just 19, she was named the ‘secular goddess’ by Vogue, and at 22, Look Magazine named her one of the five best dressed women in the world.

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How Princess Karam Inspired Schiaparelli

One of the most remarkable moments in her fashion came when Elsa Schiaparelli, the iconic Italian designer, encountered Princess Karam’s style in Paris. 

Schiaparelli was so taken by the way the princess draped her sarees that she built her 1935 couture collection around that idea. The collection, titled “Stop, Look and Listen,” used draped fabrics that echoed the fall and flow of Indian sarees. The entire collection was constructed around Princess Karam's personal style. 

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French singer Josephine Baker in Schiaparelli's saree-inspired dress, 1935 | Getty Images

Princess Karam of Kapurthala may not be widely remembered today, but her impact lives on. She showed the world that Indian style could be modern, elegant, and international without losing its roots. 

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