In a conversation on RuleBreaker: The Shaili Chopra Show, celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad debunked common skincare myths, shared anti-ageing tips, and discussed the impact of lifestyle on skin health. The discussion covered everything from social media skincare trends to menopause-related skin changes, highlighting the importance of holistic skincare.
Midlife and Skincare: A Fresh Perspective
Dr Sharad emphasised that midlife is the new beginning when it comes to self-care. While earlier years are often spent juggling work, family, and responsibilities, she pointed out that many individuals now recognize the importance of loving themselves. She explained how a skincare ritual is an intimate part of self-love.
Unlike earlier times when dermatology visits were primarily for medical conditions like eczema or acne, Dr Sharad noted a shift in people seeking treatments for natural glow and healthy skin.
What Defines Healthy Skin?
According to Dr Sharad, healthy skin is not about fairness but about clarity, hydration, and even tone. She clarified that while pores are a natural part of the skin, their size can be influenced by age, stress, and pollution.
"It’s not about having flawless skin but about maintaining it so that when light falls on your skin, it reflects naturally," she said.
She also emphasised that skincare isn’t just about topical treatments but about maintaining overall well-being.
The Science Behind Skin Aging and Collagen Breakdown
Dr Sharad provided an in-depth look at how collagen and elastin, the proteins responsible for skin firmness, degrade over time due to ageing, pollution, poor diet, and stress.
She explained how smoking, alcohol, sugar, and lack of sleep accelerate collagen breakdown, leading to premature aging. She also explained that erratic sleep patterns disrupt the circadian rhythm, affecting skin health.
"Your body and hormones get confused if you sleep at 10 PM one day, midnight the next, and 2 AM another day. This directly impacts your skin’s ability to repair itself," she explained.
Collagen Supplements: Hype or Help?
With collagen supplements trending, Shaili Chopra raised a common concern—why do some people not see results?
Dr. Sharad explained that while oral collagen supplements exist, there aren’t enough studies proving their complete absorption into the body. Instead, she recommended focusing on a protein-rich diet and amino acid supplements, which are better absorbed.
She advised that until we have more concrete research, it’s wiser to focus on dietary sources of collagen rather than relying solely on supplements.
However, she added that those who feel mentally reassured by taking collagen supplements can continue, as there is no harm in using them.
The Link Between Skin and Mental Health
One of the most surprising takeaways from the conversation was the strong connection between skin health and mental well-being.
"I’d say 90% of skincare is influenced by mental health," Dr. Sharad revealed.
She explained that stress, depression, and negative emotions contribute to collagen breakdown, dull skin, and overall poor skin health.
"I see patients who keep coming back for treatments, yet they don’t glow. When we dig deeper, they are often carrying emotional baggage. If your mental health is suffering, your skin will reflect that," she said.
She emphasized stress management, whether through meditation, breathing exercises, or finding personal relaxation techniques.
Skincare Trends: Myths vs. Reality
Does Dunking Your Face in Ice Water Help?
With social media popularising skincare hacks, Chopra asked if submerging one’s face in ice water was actually beneficial.
"It’s just an Instagram trend. Temporarily, ice constricts blood vessels and reduces puffiness, but overuse can dehydrate and damage the skin," Dr. Sharad clarified.
She advised against frequent use, emphasizing that neither extremely hot nor cold water is good for the skin.
"Room temperature or lukewarm water is the best for washing your face. Hot water evaporates moisture, while ice water restricts circulation, both of which harm your skin," she explained.
The 10-Step Skincare Routine: Necessary or Overhyped?
Despite the trend of elaborate multi-step skincare routines, Dr. Sharad keeps her regimen minimal and effective.
"I don’t believe in the 10-layer skincare routine," she admitted.
Instead, she recommended a simple approach:
Morning:
- Cleanse
- Moisturize (including the body)
- Apply sunscreen
- Use a serum only if addressing a specific concern (e.g., pigmentation or dullness)
Night:
- Cleanse (a must!)
- Apply a targeted treatment (for acne, pigmentation, or anti-aging)
- Moisturize
"If you’re too tired, just cleanse and moisturize at night, but never skip cleansing," she advised.
Makeup and Skincare: Finding the Balance
Traditionally, dermatologists discouraged makeup use, but Dr. Sharad sees it differently.
"I love makeup! It’s an extension of my work in sculpting faces, an art in itself," she shared.
She reassured that makeup is not harmful if chosen wisely.
- For dry skin: Look for products with hyaluronic acid and vitamin E.
- For oily skin: Opt for water-based or powder-based foundations to prevent clogged pores.
She suggested using a tinted sunscreen as an alternative to daily foundation.
"A little blush and lipstick can brighten your face without heavy makeup," she said.
Menopause and Skin Changes: What to Expect
Menopause can feel like a meteorite hitting skin health, as Chopra put it. Dr. Sharad explained that declining estrogen levels lead to:
- Drier skin and scalp
- Increased hair thinning or excessive hair growth (like mustache or beard growth)
- Hyperpigmentation (common in Indian women)
- Mood swings, which directly affect skin health
"Hormonal fluctuations have a real impact on skin, but a little tender love and care can help," she reassured.
She recommended:
- Thick, hydrating moisturizers with ceramides and hyaluronic acid
- Cutting down sugar (even though menopause often triggers sugar cravings)
- Eating a balanced diet and maintaining hydration
- Preparing for Menopause: Start Early
Dr. Sharad emphasized that women should not wait until menopause to address skincare concerns.
"It’s never too late to start. Even if you’re in your late 30s or 40s, following a simple, consistent skincare ritual will help you transition smoothly," she advised.
The Rule to Breaking Skincare Rules
Dr. Jaishree Sharad’s insights reinforced that true skincare is not just about what you apply externally but how you nourish yourself internally—physically, emotionally, and mentally.
"Your skin is a reflection of your overall well-being. Take care of it from the inside out," she concluded.