Are Prada's 'Antiqued Leather Pumps' Inspired By Indian Juttis?

Days after the Prada 'kolhapuri chappal' commotion settled down, the couture brand has returned to the spotlight with their 'antiqued leather pumps,' which share a close resemblance with Indian mojaris or juttis. These heels, with their elongated close-toe design and rugged leather finish, have sparked another wave of commentary about the cultural appropriation of Indian attire. They are priced at $1,450 (over ₹1.25 lakh) on the Prada website.

India's juttis and Prada?

Juttis are centuries-old footwear worn across northern Indian regions like Punjab and Rajasthan, as well as some parts of Maharashtra and Gujarat. They are handcrafted leather flats, sometimes embroidered with intricate threadwork, beads, tassels, or mirrors. Some juttis are also perforated with delicate patterns that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also allow breathability. Traditionally, juttis came in tan, brown, or red colours, but have now evolved into a spectrum of hues.

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The craft of making juttis is a collaborative endeavour between various artisans, particularly those who belong to the Chamar and Mochi communities, which are identified as Scheduled Caste and Other Backward Class respectively. According to Gaatha, Chamar workers process the raw hides for jutti making, while the Mochis assemble the different parts of the jutti, stitch them together, and decorate them. Typically, juttis are sold for about ₹150 to ₹1,500 in the local markets of India.

Although Prada's latest heels only have a minor resemblance to Indian juttis, they have been drawing sharp criticism for allegedly lacking attribution to the original jutti artisans. The brand has once again come under fire after their "open-toe leather sandals" last month, which mirrored the design of Kolhapuri chappals. The sandals, sold for about ₹1.2 lakh, became the centre of a larger conversation around South Asian heritage, culture, and artistry on the global stage.

Prada and "cultural appropriation"

In June 2024, Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 Menswear show in Milan showcased leather open-toe sandals that bore a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) urged the brand to formally recognise the inspiration behind their design. Although Prada later acknowledged the influence of the iconic GI-tagged design, the lack of accountability addressed deeper concerns of plagiarism. 

Karnataka's LIDKAR also issued a ₹500-crore legal notice to the luxury brand, claiming violations of GI rights. Prada's legal team, however, denied these breaches, saying it did not use the term 'Kolhapuri' or any related GI markings in the naming, marketing, or display of their 'open-toe sandals'.

Representatives from Prada recently flew down to India to reportedly discuss an 'ethical collaboration' with Maharashtra's artisans. Kolhapur District Collector Amol Yedge reportedly informed them not only about the footwear but other heritage symbols, such as Saaj and Thusi jewellery. The delegation said that Prada can consider entering into agreements to increase the quality of production of traditional Kolhapuri items in the future.

While the Italian brand's outreach to Indian officials and artisans is a step toward more ethical engagement, it also underscores how long overdue such collaborations are. The ongoing debate about Prada and many other luxury brands re-interpreting South Asian traditional symbols highlights a critical fault line in creative industries like fashion and entertainment. As the lines between different cultures continue to blur in our globalised world, the demand to acknowledge and compensate source communities is becoming more urgent.

Views expressed by the author are their own.