Not Just ‘Leather Flats’: The Kolhapuris Are Having A Global Moment

When Kolhapuri chappals appeared at Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show, they weren’t redesigned, bedazzled, or Westernised. They came as they always have —handcrafted, grounded, and unapologetically desi. Fashion glossaries listed them as “leather flats,” treating them like a new silhouette rather than the Indian heirlooms they are. While most international brands often remix cultural symbols, this quiet nod to Indian fashion heritage stood out. In India, Kolhapuris never went out of style — and now, they’re making fashion headlines again without even trying. 

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The Kolhapuri chappal can be traced back to its historical roots in Maharashtra’s cultural heart — Kolhapur. Crafted by hand using vegetable-tanned leather and adorned with intricate detailing, these chappals are more than just footwear; they’re an artisanal treasure of India. Traditionally made without any machinery, their signature design — a flat sole, wide straps, and open toes — was built to suit the Indian climate and long days of walking. Once worn by royal families, villagers, and spiritual leaders across Maharashtra, Karnataka, and Rajasthan, each pair carries the mark of heritage. No two are exactly alike, and each takes days to complete — that’s the quiet luxury of handmade fashion.

But what’s ancient doesn’t always remain in the past. Kolhapuris have effortlessly made their way into modern wardrobes, proving their timeless appeal. The chappals continue to evolve from weddings, where they’re styled with sarees and sherwanis, to college campuses where students pair them with jeans and kurtas.

In Delhi’s Janpath or Mumbai’s Colaba, Kolhapuris sit proudly beside Nike sneakers — a true example of desi casual elegance, where comfort meets identity.

Interestingly, Kolhapuris have already made global appearances before Prada’s SS26 show. When The Beatles visited India in the 1960s, they were spotted wearing these sandals, sparking early Western fascination. Indian designers like Sabyasachi, Payal Khandwala, and Anita Dongre have since reimagined them in metallics, pastels, and embroidered variations. Kolhapuris have been seen in fashion shoots, travel vlogs, and destination weddings abroad. But they were almost always modified — given heels, platforms, or wrapped in an "ethnic" aesthetic.

Why Prada’s Kolhapuri Moment Matters

That’s what makes Prada’s move stand out. Unlike many global brands that reinvent cultural symbols to fit a Western gaze, Prada showcased the original Kolhapuri unchanged. The act felt powerful — as if saying, this design is enough. For once, an Indian symbol didn’t need to bend, blend, or be beautified. “This wasn’t appropriation — it was appreciation.” The world didn’t wear India — it walked with it.

In a world obsessed with speed and trends, Kolhapuris stand tall as symbols of slow, sustainable fashion. They’re handmade by skilled artisans, use natural materials, and involve no mass production or factory waste. Unlike most fast fashion shoes that wear out in months, Kolhapuris are built to last both in quality and cultural meaning. Each pair supports a dying craft and preserves the legacy of traditional shoemaking in India.

Young people today, especially Gen Z, are increasingly shifting away from flashy foreign labels. They’re choosing rooted fashion pieces that speak of place, people, and purpose. For them, Kolhapuris aren’t just footwear. They are stories stitched in leather, a reflection of identity, tradition, and pride in local heritage.

Prada’s moment on the runway was more than a fashion statement — it was a reminder. A reminder that not everything old needs updating. Some things are timeless because they carry the weight of history, memory, and meaning. And finally, in the noise of global trends, something quiet, brown, and beautifully desi took centre stage — just as it is.

Views expressed by the author are their own