Heggodu: A Karnataka Village Where Farmers Are Shakespeare Experts

In Karnataka's Heggodu, villagers live and breathe art. Here, farmers quote Shakespeare, and theatre thrives amidst paddy fields and everyday simplicity.

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Shalini Banerjee
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Photograph: (Travel and Leisure Asia)

Tucked deep within the lush greenery of Karnataka's Shimoga district lies Heggodu, a village that would, at first glance, seem no different from any other rural settlement in India. Mud paths weave through fields, the scent of earth hangs in the air, and daily life moves to the quiet rhythm of nature. But behind this pastoral simplicity beats the heart of something rare, an artistic revolution.

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Heggodu is not just a village. It's a quiet cultural rebellion. While most rural towns wrestle with modern distractions or abandon tradition for migration and technology, Heggodu has done something radical, it chose literature, drama, and dialogue as its guiding lights. Here, theatre isn't just for the elite or the educated. It's for the farmer, the tailor, the child after school. It's for everyone.

 Village Built on a Stage 

This cultural awakening didn't happen by accident. In 1949, a man named K.V. Subbanna, born and raised in Heggodu, dared to imagine something audacious. He wanted to bring theatre and intellectual life into the heart of his village, not as a one-time event or urban luxury, but as a sustained, living part of the community.

What he started as small informal discussions and dramatised readings eventually evolved into Ninasam (Nilakanteshwara Natyaseva Sangha), an institution that has since become synonymous with Heggodu. The name means "the service of theatre under Lord Nilakanteshwara," and that's exactly what it has done: serve art, serve ideas, and serve people.

Ninasam has trained thousands of students in the art of performance, criticism, literature, and film appreciation. But more than that, it has created a culture of learning and reflection within the entire village.

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Shakespeare in the Fields

In Heggodu, you may find a farmer discussing Macbeth's ambition after a day in the fields. A tailor might pause his stitching to argue over a translation of Antigone, or a schoolboy might surprise you with a quote from Brecht.

This is no exaggeration. The arts are part of the village's DNA. Plays are not just staged in classrooms or theatres, they're debated over tea, rehearsed in courtyards, and interpreted through Kannada translations that make world literature accessible to all. It's a rare example of how rural India can be intellectually alive without needing to urbanise.

A Publishing Legacy 

Alongside theatre, Heggodu is home to Akshara Prakashana, a Kannada-language publishing house that has been instrumental in keeping local and global literature alive and accessible. The press publishes works on philosophy, theatre, and critical thought, helping Heggodu maintain a pulse on both Karnataka's intellectual tradition and the wider world's cultural developments.

Publishing in one's native tongue is an act of resistance in a world increasingly dominated by English. And yet, in Heggodu, English literature is not rejected, it is translated, understood, and embraced on its own terms. Shakespeare doesn't come in to dominate, he is welcomed in Kannada and discussed with the same familiarity as a local poet.

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The Village as a School of Thought 

Perhaps what makes Heggodu exceptional is not just its output, its books, its plays, its festivals, but its mindset. The village is not waiting for the government or institutions to bring culture to it. It creates, supports, and sustains it on its own.

There is no sense of inferiority for being rural. Instead, there's pride in being a village that reads, watches, performs, and critiques. In Heggodu, even silence has a purpose, perhaps to contemplate a line of poetry or to imagine the next scene of a play.

What Heggodu Teaches Us 

In an era where cities are overwhelmed with noise and distractions, Heggodu reminds us that stillness can be fertile, for art, thought, and dialogue. It proves that education is not limited to degrees or institutions. A village can be a university if its people are curious, open-minded, and willing to nurture each other's creativity.

Heggodu isn't perfect, it deals with the same struggles that many rural communities face. But it offers a blueprint for what cultural self-reliance can look like, a place where the arts are not an add-on, but a way of life.

English literature Karnataka