European Union Bans Popular Gel Nail Polishes - Here’s Why

Europe bans gel nail polishes with a chemical called TPO, citing cancer and fertility risks. Salons must pull stock as brands push safer, TPO-free alternatives.

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Bhuvika Jasuja
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Beginning September 1, salons and stores across the European Union are required to stop selling and using certain gel nail polishes, following a sweeping new ban on a chemical linked to potential health risks.The European Commission announced that products containing a chemical called trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) , will no longer be permitted, citing the risk of cancer and adverse affects on fertility and fetal development.

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TPO, which is a photoinitiator widely used in gel nail formulas, plays a key role in giving the cosmetic its durability, helping it harden under UV and LED lamps. However, EU regulators have now classified it as a carcinogenic and reprotoxic substance.

Why Now?

For years, TPO was allowed in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 5%. Regulators argued that in small amounts, the risk appeared manageable. But after reviewing new scientific assessments, the European Commission concluded that the safety margin was too narrow, and exposure over time could not be ruled out as harmful.

“This step is part of our precautionary approach to chemicals in cosmetics,” an EU spokesperson said in a statement. “Even if the immediate risk to consumers is limited, the long-term health of our citizens is our priority.”

What This Means for Salons and Consumers

The ban requires salons to immediately stop using polishes containing TPO. Retailers must also pull these products from shelves, meaning customers will no longer find many popular gel brands in stores.

The sudden shift has left some salon owners scrambling to adjust. “We stocked up on gels just weeks ago, and now they’re worthless,” said Sofia Ramos, a salon owner in Madrid. “It’s a financial hit, but at the same time, clients are asking for safer options so we have to adapt quickly.”

Several nail polish brands have already started promoting TPO-free lines. Alternatives include formulations from companies such as Manucurist and Aprés Nail, which use different curing agents considered safer under EU standards.

How Risky Is TPO?

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Experts point out that the risks to people who have already worn gel manicures are likely very low. Once polish is cured under UV or LED light, the TPO undergoes a chemical reaction, meaning it is no longer present in the same form.

“Consumers shouldn’t panic,” explained dermatologist Dr Hannah Kopelman. “The main concern is occupational exposure for nail technicians who handle these products daily, especially before they’re cured. Over time, that could mean higher levels of exposure.”

Still, dermatologists recommend that clients ask salons about the products being used and consider switching to brands that emphasize “TPO-free” or “EU-compliant” labels.

Reactions From the Beauty Industry

Reactions have been mixed. Health advocates and consumer safety groups praised the decision, saying it puts public health above convenience.

But some professionals in the beauty sector worry about losing clients who specifically want long-lasting manicures. “Gel polish is one of our most requested services,” said nail technician Alina Kovacs in Budapest. “Clients love the shine and durability. If the replacements don’t perform as well, that could hurt business.”

Others, however, see opportunity. Eco-friendly and “clean beauty” brands may now gain a bigger share of the market, especially among younger consumers who are already conscious about chemical safety.

Looking Ahead

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The EU ban underscores its broader strategy of tightening cosmetic regulations and phasing out substances with even suspected long-term risks. Officials say this proactive approach helps avoid future public health crises, even if the science is not yet conclusive for humans.

For consumers, the change may cause some short-term frustration as favorite products disappear. But industry experts argue it could push innovation, leading to safer and equally effective alternatives in the long run.

As of today, the glossy, chip-proof manicures gel lovers know may look the same but the formulas behind them will have to change.

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