Kanjivaram: A 7th-Century Handloom That Celebrates Slow Fashion To Date

Kanjivaram is one of India's most historically rich and revered handlooms, with centuries of tradition and pride woven into each piece. The story of Kanjivaram is deeply connected to Hindu mythology, culture, and the artistry that dates back to the Pallava dynasty of the 7th Century CE. The weavers of this silk are believed to be descendants of Sage Markanda, who is considered the master weaver for the Gods and Goddesses.

Legend has it that he was wandering through the forests of Kanchipuram when he saw Goddess Parvati weaving a silk saree. Struck by the beauty and intricacy of her weaving, he asked her to teach him the art of silk weaving. Sage Markanda spent years mastering the art of weaving silk and became a sought-after craftsman for the divine pantheon.

This has inspired many common Kanjivaram designs like temples, sacred symbols, deities, and more. Today, each Kanjivaram saree continues to carry threads of that divine origin, woven with mulberry silk and opulent threads of gold or silver zari. This also makes them a luxurious commodity that wearers pride themselves on owning.

Significance of Kanjivaram today

Almost every woman in southern India cherishes a Kanjivaram saree, lovingly passed down through generations as a symbol of heritage and timeless elegance. Recently, actress and social media star Disha Madan from Karnataka turned heads at the Cannes Film Festival in a Kanjivaram saree draped in a cocktail gown silhouette.

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Madan's outfit was designed by Anmol Ashok and Bindu Jayanth. The Bengaluru-based artiste opted for a 70-year-old saree, handwoven by artisans near Chettinad in Tamil Nadu, and restored by the brand Saffron House. She paired the saree-dress with a handwoven corset blouse, which comprised about 240 hours of work.

Speaking to SheThePeople, she said, "We didn't want to take away the significance this saree holds, as the reference was taken from a photograph of a 1950s Chettinad wedding... It's very hard for a Kanjivaram to sit in a silhouette of a Western dress because of the threads and heavy fabric. We tried a range of draping styles to see what would enhance the body and the fabric the most, and chose a very beautiful silhouette... When we're using a 70-year-old Kanjivaram saree, there is no room for errors, and once we cut the saree, it's very hard to make a lot of adjustments and alterations to it, so we had to work through those challenges."

"All in all, I feel like a lot of effort and thought have gone into the outfit," Madan added. "It's a celebration of a lot of things in one, as we tried to pay tribute to the weavers and my mother... Being on such a global platform, we hold the responsibility of truly showcasing where we're from and our cultural backgrounds, and to have that responsibility on my shoulders was quite a pleasure for me."

Always in trend

From decades-old hand-me-downs to modern interpretations of tradition, Kanjivaram sarees are symbolic of India's timeless and versatile heritage among fleeting fashion trends. They continue to mark life's most special and meaningful moments, like weddings, festivals, or other rites of passage. Many brides in southern India are also gifted Kanjivarams as a symbol of blessings and prosperity.

Gautam Gupta, Creative Director of the couture house Asha Gautam, told SheThePeople, "What sets the Kanjivaram apart is its timeless design, featuring motifs and artwork inspired by temples, history, architecture, and nature. This artistry has made it a beloved staple among saree connoisseurs—a treasured piece meant for a lifetime. Often passed down through generations, a Kanjivaram saree becomes more than just clothing; it transforms into a profoundly personal heirloom rich with memories and sentiment."

Haroon Rashid, the Co-founder and Chief Product Officer of the desi fashion brand Koskii, told SheThePeople about the time-tested elegance of Kanjivarams. "I don’t think there’s anything like the humble Kanjivaram anywhere else in the world. The weave itself is extremely durable, which means it can last for years, often becoming family heirlooms that are passed down through generations. Traditional motifs and colours make it appealing to multiple age groups. It’s traditional yet still relevant to today’s Gen Z." 

While Kanjivaram is a centuries-old handloom, it has adapted with time, fitting contemporary designs. Many women get customised sarees, woven with their personal motifs, names, special dates, or other meaningful symbols.

Gautam Gupta spoke about the modern reinterpretation of Kanjivaram. "Traditionally known for their heavy drape and dense weave, Kanjivaram now uses finer silk threads. This shift at the weaving stage has resulted in sarees that are significantly lighter, more breathable, and more comfortable to wear... The Kanjivaram's design vocabulary has expanded well beyond its classical roots. While traditional motifs like peacocks, checks, and temple borders still hold their place, contemporary versions now feature geometric shapes, abstract florals, and reimagined layouts."

Haroon Rashid also detailed how the Kanjivaram has evolved over the years. "While the core of Kanjivaram has stayed the same—the contrast borders, zari work—today, weavers are using lighter silks. The modern woman wants a variety of colours. The requirement for pastels is on the rise. We’re experimenting with self-coloured borders, modern motifs, geometric designs, digital prints, etc. Today, the variety and options available are endless, but the vibe is still the same," he said.

Kanjivaram weavers, slow fashion

Today, with the demand for fast fashion on the rise, many silks are produced using powerlooms rather than handlooms. Each handwoven Kanjivaram takes 15-20 days, which is significantly longer than a powerloom design.  Although the traditional weaving is still alive, the weaver community in the town of Kanchipuram has seen a significant decline in both numbers and economic stability.

Despite this shift, the distinction between the two remains unmistakable. The look, weight, and feel of handloom Kanjivaram remains distinct from the powerloom silk, carrying a richness and depth that machine-made silks simply cannot replicate. This makes handloom Kanjivaram an obvious choice for special occasions. 

Shreemayi Reddy, a content creator, spoke about what makes the handloom so enduring. "For us South Indians, the Kanjivaram saree is like an epitome of tradition... It's also a tradition to pass down the Kanjivaram sarees because they carry the purest form of gold or silver along with silk. It is only possible because of the longevity of the material and fabric, which we usually can't see in new-age fabrics and manufacturing. With the evolving times, even if there are new designs in the fashion industry, the old ones don't go out of style."

As fast fashion dominated global markets, the ageless beauty of Indian traditional handloom like Kanjivaram serves as a testament to slow, mindful craftsmanship rooted in sustainability and cultural identity. Each piece is a labour of love and a representation of the irreplicable mastery passed down through generations in the weaver community, who dedicate their lives to preserving the intricate techniques and symbols embedded in every thread.