Hair Oiling Was Never 'Unhygienic', The West Stigmatized It

When I was a child, something that my grandmother used to do every Sunday, without fail was give me a hair champi and wrap my hair in two greasy braids, right before we went to bed together. Even now, in my moments of stress, when my mother comes to me, sometimes holding a little stainless steel bowl of heated oil, I let her pour all my stress out of my hair, while we gab away about random things. Oiling my hair isn't just about keeping my hair healthy, it is rather an emotion, an act of love and care.

An Integral Part Of Indian Tradition 

Mothers and grandmothers have passed down this nourishing practice, believing in its benefits for healthy, strong hair. Yet, there has always been a lingering stigma surrounding oiled hair, particularly among younger generations exposed to Western beauty ideals. Many Indian children who grew up attending English-medium schools have stories of being laughed at for their neatly plaited, oil-slicked hair. 

Where Did This Aversion To Hair Oiling Originate? 

The tradition of oiling hair dates back generations in India. Ayurveda emphasises the benefits of oil massages for scalp health, hair strength, and overall well-being. Oils like coconut, amla, and mustard have been used for generations, by our mothers and grandmothers. However, this cultural practice has often been ridiculed, particularly in urban settings.

Many of us might recall our childhood experiences of being teased for coming to school with oiled hair.

I remember my friend walking into the class with her hair neatly braided and glistening with coconut oil, only to be nicknamed ‘chipku’ or ‘greasy head’ by my classmates. Unfortunately, this is a common experience among many young Indians, where the pressure to conform to “modern” grooming standards leads them to abandon their own cultural traditions.

The roots of this stigma can be traced back to the colonial time. The British rulers, who saw Indian customs as inferior, dismissed our traditions as primitive. This mindset was ingrained in the education system and media, which shaped our perceptions about our hair. 

However, the irony is that what was once dismissed as an unhygienic tradition is now being glorified when repackaged as a Western concept, and sold as a premium self-care practice.

The Good News

However, despite the stigma, the younger generations are beginning to reclaim this tradition with pride.

Social media has played a significant role in this shift, with dermatologists debunking myths about hair oiling and celebrating its advantages, people are back to viewing hair oiling as traditional self-care.

Ultimately, hair oiling was never unhygienic; it was simply misunderstood and misrepresented.

Perhaps the next time you hesitate to step out with oiled hair, you'll remember that this tradition isn’t a sign of backwardness, but a part of our rich culture.

What's the best way to apply hair oil?

Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, medical director of ISAAC Luxe, told Vogue, “A scalp massage helps boost blood circulation, which can lead to hair growth and also help you relax. However, a vigorous champi can break a lot of hair during and after the oil massage. Be gentle, and use the tips of your fingers to massage oil on the roots and scalp," says Dr Gupta.

Some people leave oil in their hair overnight, but typically, one to two hours is enough. The expert explains, "If you apply more oil than necessary, trying to cover every strand, you’ll need just as much shampoo to remove it. This can cause dryness, which defeats the purpose. A small amount is effective." She notes that many women in India oil their hair daily and then braid it, but she recommends doing this only once or twice a week.

However, not everyone should oil their hair. "People with dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis should avoid oiling, as it can worsen flaking and cause dandruff to stick to the scalp. In some cases, it may also lead to red patches, itching, and inflammation," she cautions.