Wearing Jeans Makes You Western? Here's Denim's Surprising History With India

Worn by everyone from Amitabh Bachchan in the 1970s to Tupac Shakur in the 1990s, to you yesterday, jeans have fast become the most popular accessory to style with any outfit.

In fact, if you look around yourself in a public space, you’d most likely spot denim faster than cutting chai. Numbers have proven this, too. The denim market in India is growing at an annual rate of 8 to 9% and it’s projected to reach 9.16 billion dollars by the end of 2026 - a significant increase from 2023’s, a mere 6.15 billion. 

However, its relationship with India couldn’t exactly be referred to as recent, for scrap pieces of denim and their story can be found scattered across India’s history ever since the 17th century. And it’s as stained as your favourite pair of jeans. 

The India connection

The origin story of jeans begins in the mid-16th century when merchant sailors from Genoa, an Italian coastal town, got their trousers touted as “Genoese” or “genes.”

Over time, for sailors from Portugal to Italy and later to Britain, these evolved into overalls, tailored to be more practical for prolonged journeys.

And the material these were made from became a type of calico cloth (a fabric named after none other than the town formerly known as Calicut, modern-day Kozhikode, where the fabric was obtained). 

It began to be produced and exported from Mumbai. It was even one worn by the dockside workers of a specific port. And as predictable as it is, this clothing, too, owes its name to the area it was produced in. 

Just like Kashmir’s cashmere or previously mentioned Calicut’s calico, dungarees, too, earned their colonially mispronounced name from the Dongri port area of Mumbai.

The long-lasting quality of their fabric made it a favourite in the eyes of companies in the West. And therefore, it soon began to be shipped out in large quantities. 

Western manufacturers, too, took an interest in making these overalls in their own methods. These included Levi’s and OshKosh B'gosh, which contributed to the commercial popularity of the overalls. 

In the modern era, it’s taken on different shapes and audiences. From bell-bottom-like trousers in the 70s to a wardrobe staple for 90’s hip-hop artists to even finding its place in the costume of Rachel Green, dungarees have managed to maintain their relevance. 

Trade and Swadeshi pride

The iconic blue that remains synonymous with denim comes from the crop Indigo. It was cultivated in India since the Indus Valley, hence its name, which comes from a Greek word that simply translates to ‘from India.’ 

Once the British arrived, it became one of the most important crops in colonial trade. This was because there was global demand for Indigo’s unique deep hue. The indigo that originated from India was seen as more stable and authentic than other sources, possibly as a result of India’s ideal climate for the crop. 

And this demand was significantly exacerbated in the 19th century through its implementation in denim workwear by companies such as Levi’s. But why was Indigo chosen? 

It hid dirt and other stains, which made it ideal for workwear. Additionally, due to its fading quality, which is a result of it only forming a bond with solely the exterior cotton thread, it was longer-lasting and didn’t lose colour suddenly.

Moreover, it was readily available due to the presence of colonial trade.  And soon, Indigo became the sole dye that could truly provide that authentic dye. 

However, while this shade proved convenient for the West, it proved dangerous for Indian farmers. 

Farmers were coerced into producing the cash crop instead of food crops, which reduced food availability significantly. This forced production in certain areas led to slavery and debt. For example, in Bengal, under a system called the Ryoti system. 

Planters provided compensation for the expenses of growing this crop. However, with high interest rates - ones that lasted for life. Profit for producing this crop was meagre too.

One-half of the crop was taken as revenue, and the other was sold at a cheaper price than the market. A combination of these practices led to increased famines and food shortages in Bengal. 

However, these injustices also led to advancements in India’s struggle for Independence. For example, it led to the Indigo Revolt in the Chaugucha village of Nadia in Bengal. While this was crushed by brutal force, another very significant example is one set in Champaran.

The forced growth of cash crops had led farmers to the verge of starvation. This led to a visit by Mahatma Gandhi in the year 1917 when he was invited by a local farmer.

As a result, this kick-started one of the earliest beginnings of the Civil Disobedience movement.  

It’s worth noting that today, India’s largest denim manufacturer and the world’s third, Arvind Mills, was co-founded by Kasturbhai Lalbhai - a Gandhi follower - who has also been renowned for his philanthropic and ethical business practices.

Indian Cinema & Denim 

While the paparazzi pictures of today’s Bollywood stars may be populated with all sorts of denim, Bollywood’s love affair with denim travels back to the 1970s. 

Influenced by the hippie culture or the boho chic of the West, denim made its way to the silver screens of Indian cinema. ‘The Angry Young Man’ rugged aesthetic often consisted of denim looks, whether the denim jacket in Zanjeer or the denim shirt in the iconic Deewaar. Denim soon found its way into the wardrobe of the rebel. 

Bell bottoms, too, played a role in the relationship between denim & Bollywood with actors such as Zeenat Aman and once again Amitabh Bachchan popularising them through their costumes, 

However, it’s interesting to note that while jeans and denim pop up time and again when looking through the timeline of Indian cinema - whether it’s Anil Kapoor in Mr India or the Tamil film Jeans (1998) starring Aishwarya Rai- the message almost remains consistent - denim remains a symbol of youth and modernity.

Article by Jai Shah, freelance fashion writer, for SheThePeople Sartorial Stories | Views expressed by the author are their own.