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Hollywood actor Brad Pitt just gave Indian handloom a moment in the spotlight. He was spotted donning a striking Tangaliya weave shirt on the sets of his film F1. Traditionally crafted by artisans in Gujarat, Tangaliya is a rare, 700-year-old weaving technique passed down through generations. In a crucial scene in the movie, F1, Pitt was seen wearing an indigo organic cotton shirt from an Indian label. The shirt indigo, crafted using the traditional Tangaliya weave, was chosen by costume designer Julian Day to bring authenticity to Pitt’s character, Sonny Hayes.
Known for his celebrated work on Bohemian Rhapsody and Rocketman, Julian Day explained the styling choice in a recent interview with News18. He revealed that the selection of the piece was deliberate and driven by the narrative tone of the film as well as current trends in fashion.
“Its soft indigo tones helped create the right palette for him,” said Day. He further added, “Indian brands are so hot at the moment. Their use of natural fabrics and dyes and how they are handcrafted play so well in this current environment.”
Worn by Brad Pitt, Born in Gujarat
Tangaliya is a 700-year-old weaving technique practised by the Dangasiyas, a community of artisans from Gujarat's Surendranagar district. In 14th-century Gujarat, a Bharwad shepherd fell in love with a Vankar weaver, a union that defied rigid caste boundaries. When their relationship became public, they were exiled from their communities. But instead of fading into obscurity, they carved out a new life through weaving.
As they began again, the couple was gifted a simple wooden stick to help with their work. In their dialect, "dang" means stick. Over time, their descendants became known as the Dangasiyas, those who carry the stick, and a legacy. From that stick came a weaving tradition unlike any other, Tangaliya. Using hand-twisted threads, the Dangasiyas created dotted patterns known as daanas, embedded directly into the weave. These dots don't sit on the surface, they are a part of the fabric's very structure, just like the love and defiance that formed this craft.
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The Tangaliya Technique
Tangaliya is not just weaving; it's math, memory, and storytelling. The weaver counts every thread and places each daana (dot) with exact precision, twisting contrasting colours into intricate motifs. The result is a raised pattern, usually inspired by nature, stars, wells, vines, and fields. Traditionally woven on pit looms using sheep or goat wool, the fabric was mainly worn as shawls and skirts by Bharwad women. But the craft was slowly disappearing; by the early 2000s, fewer than 10 families practised it.
The Revival That Brought It Back
Local weavers didn't give up. The community started reviving Tangaliya by experimenting with organic and kala cotton, new colour schemes, and modern garments like jackets and shirts. In 2009, Tangaliya earned a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, officially recognising its unique identity. That same thread born of rebellion and resilience was now finding a new audience. The shirt worn by Brad Pitt was crafted by eight artisans, using handspun cotton and dyed using a natural indigo fermentation process. The entire process took over nine hours, slow, deliberate, and deeply rooted in sustainability.
The fact that Brad Pitt's blue shirt was woven in Gujarat may seem like a small detail to some. But for the artisans of Surendranagar and the Dangasiyas, it means the world. It's proof that their heritage is not just surviving, it's thriving. More importantly, it shines a light on the love story that started it all. A shepherd and a weaver who chose love over rules.
Personal views expressed by the author are their own.