Indian Mirror Work Is Now A Global Fashion Trend; But Who Gets Credit?

Tory Burch’s mirror-studded maxi dress is glinting its way into weddings, parties, and Instagram feeds, dazzling not just with its sparkle, but also with the questions it raises about cultural credit. The reflective embroidery technique, now embraced by brands like Tory Burch and J.Crew, has centuries-old roots in Indian fashion, reigniting a broader conversation in the fashion world: Where does a trend end and cultural appropriation begin?

Magic mirror on the wall, is this fair?

Tory Burch and J.Crew have recently set the tone for one of the season’s most talked-about fashion trends — outfits adorned with tiny, shimmering reflective mirrors carefully stitched into skirts, blouses, and dresses. Leading the pack is Burch’s viral strappy maxi dress, available in soft pink and sunshine yellow, completely covered in circular mirror discs. 

But while the trend might feel fresh on Western runways and red carpets, it’s far from a novel or independently imagined design. The embroidery technique at the heart of this look — known as sheesha or mirror work — is a time-honoured textile tradition with deep cultural roots in Indian fashion, especially in the western regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan. 

For centuries, mirror work has been intricately woven into Indian garments such as lehengas, kurtas, and dupattas. From the Rabaris to the Lambanis (Banjaras), several underrepresented communities are virtuosos of this vibrant work. Beyond its visual appeal, this craft carries symbolic meaning: mirrors were originally believed to ward off evil spirits and reflect negativity away from the wearer.

Let's reflect: Cultural credit and industry debate

Tory Burch has publicly stated that she was inspired by Indian fashion and confirmed that the now-viral mirror dress is manufactured in India. However, a mere mention of the country of origin does little to convey the deep cultural and historical significance behind the embroidery. The technique is not just an aesthetic — it’s a legacy, carried forward through generations of skilled artisans whose work is often hidden behind the glamour of global branding.

While the dress continues to gain traction online and offline, the depth of its cultural context remains largely absent from brand marketing campaigns and product descriptions. The artistry, time, and spiritual resonance behind sheesha work are rarely acknowledged. Fashion journalists, Indian creators, and even casual viewers have begun highlighting the origins of this trend on social media, sparking much-needed conversations about its cultural weight and ongoing relevance.

Though this hasn't erupted into full controversy, it feeds into an ongoing and urgent discussion within the fashion industry — the fine line between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation. There’s a meaningful difference.

True appreciation involves not only credit but also representation, compensation, and contextual storytelling.

In contrast, appropriation often looks like borrowing traditional styles with minimal acknowledgement of their deeper meanings or the communities behind them. The lack of visible Indian artisans or voices in the campaign narratives further highlights this disconnect.

As luminous mirror motifs light up global fashion trends, they reflect far more than just surface-level beauty. These designs echo heritage, beliefs, and centuries of storytelling embedded in thread and glass. Whether this trend continues to shine or eventually fades, one thing remains clear: designers must tread mindfully in an increasingly interconnected and culturally conscious world.

After all, behind every tiny mirror may lie an artisan’s tireless hours, generational wisdom, and a cultural memory that deserves to be honoured, not just worn.

Views expressed by the author are their own.